Hedgie FAQ #2: Prague in Two Days
© 2007 by Hedgie ®: The full answer to this FAQ is
copyrighted material intended for solely your personal use ; do not distribute.
2. We will be in Prague for only two days. What are the "must sees?"
Really seeing the city takes a long, leisurely visit, so plan this as a two-day preview of the many gems packing this glorious city. As you are torn away, you will vow to come back.
Hedgie's guide lists the premier sights in six areas of the historical center. Use it to select your own list of "must sees,"
depending on your interests and what pace you like to keep. Print it out as a supplement to the hardcopy guide you have. It helps cut through the surplus of information, highlighting the things you really don't want to miss.
Note Hedgie's FAQ #0.3 on the pros and cons of hiring a guide.
TIPS:
The historical center of Prague is
relatively compact, so you can see nearly all of it by walking, supplemented with a few tram rides.
Your hotel location is absolutely key to a good visit when
you have only 2 days.
Staying in the historical center itself allows more time to explore the area and to recuperate
in your room before an evening outing. See the tips in our FAQ#4 on preferred
areas to stay, and on how to sort through hotels' exaggerated claims of being "near the center."
Hedgie's FAQs #8 and #9 give restaurant, pub, cafe, and deli recommendations to dovetail with these sights.
Best Map: The absolutely best map for finding your way easily is the Prague Panoramic Map published by ATP Pubishing House in Jihlava, The Czech Republic. It is a three-dimensional color drawing of the historic center,
completely labeled. You simply can't get lost. Easy to carry. Available in some bookstores in many languages. Great souvenir, too.
(ISBN 80-86374-51-3)
This map has become so popular that there are now detailed 3-D maps of the Prague Castle and of towns like Česky Krumlov by the same company.
OLD TOWN - STARE MESTO
This is the oldest part of the historical center and the premier "must see" if you love
wandering through a quarter of narrow cobbled streets and architectural gems.
Metro and tram stops: "Staromestska" or "Namesti Republiky" or Metro stop "Mustek," all on the borders of the Old Town.
No public transport stops are inside this portion of the historical center.
At a moderate pace with some stops, allow about 4 hours. In particular,
do not miss
- Old Town Square - huge beautiful square, with statue of Jan Hus
- Tyn Church with its delicately-spired towers
- Astronomical clock - do wait for the hour to chime and figures to emerge
- View from the Town Hall tower
This is often crowded, but is just the right height and just the right location to see nearly all of the historical center in detail. It's especially magical just after a fresh snow.
- Male namesti (Small square)- just off the Old Town Square, and not to be confused with
Malastranske namesti, on the other side of the Vltava river. Wonderful facades and
2 large excellent crystal shops, U Rotta and Moser.
INSIDER'S TIP:If you visit the Polish Cultural Center here, you can see exhibits in splendid original Gothic-era rooms.
- Celetna Street - part of the Royal Way. Pedestrian zone. Many shops and boutiques.
- Obecni Dum (Municipal House) - Art Nouveau. Tours available - check in gift shop/cafe downstairs
for times, languages, tickets. Contains 2 restaurants and a huge cafe as well as a concert hall and
many private reception rooms.
- In season, open-air Christmas markets (try the hot mulled wine or the grog and buy fabulous hand-made Christmas ornaments) and Easter markets
(buy hand-decorated eggs) in the Old Town Square and Namesti Republiky (near Obecni Dum)
NEW TOWN - NOVE MESTO
This quarter is new only relative to the Old Town. The foundation stone was laid in
March 1348. Most buildings are from the 18th and 19th century,
with a few older structures, some recent additions, and remodeled interiors.
The Vinohrady section has many attractive streets and upscale shops
catering mostly to residents. Seeing the New Town's highlights
is an easy extension of your walk through the Old Town. Add 2 hours.
- Wenceslas Square or Vaclavske namesti - wide boulevard lined with hotels and shops. The square of many
key political gatherings including the rallies leading up to the 1989 fall of Communism. Statue of St.
Wenceslas in front of the National Museum. Metro stops for Wenceslas Square are at the top and the bottom
of the boulevard: Mustek or Museum. Numerous trams run through the center of the square and stop at "Vaclavske namesti."
- Hotel Europa - splendid Art Nouveau exterior and public rooms
- Franciscan Garden (Frantiskanska zahrada) - a hidden treasure accessible through an arcade (pasaz)
from Wenceslas Square or from Jungmanova square. Roses, herbs, quiet seating on benches. Ask for help with
directions.
- Na Prikope - wide pedestrian shopping street, formerly the moat around the Old Town. Leads to Obecni Dum (see Old Town notes).
CASTLE AREA - HRADCANY
Hradcany and Mala Strana are historical areas across the Vltava River from the Old Town.
Unless you have unusual stamina, we recommend you see these sights on a different day
than your Old Town walk.
Your best bet is to use a tram (#22 or #23, stop "Prazsky hrad") to the top of the hill.
Alternately, exiting at the Malostrankska Metro station will put you near the foot of the Old Castle Steps,
where it's a picturesque walk up to the Castle, though equally so walking down after you
have seen it. To walk from the Hradcanska Metro station is longer, much more complicated, and not efficient.
The famous profile of the Castle which dominates the hill is actually the Gothic
St. Vitus Cathedral surrounded by the primarily Baroque buildings of the castle.
Some of the older Romanesque and Gothic structures
remain within the castle complex and can be toured.
The president of the Czech Republic
works and entertains in the castle. There are also various art galleries and concert
venues within the complex. The Strahov Monastery is a short walk away.
Whereas most of the sights in the Old Town can be seen while walking, many of the interesting sights
here are indoors and require tickets. Very pleasant on a rainy day. Seeing everything recommended could take 5 to 6 hours,
not including a meal stop.
- Castle tour, especially the Royal Palace, the Kralovsky Palace
with the riding staircase, Vladislav Hall, and the site of the
defenestration of 1618.
- St Vitus cathedral, including archaeological digs in the crypt
- St. George's Basilica
- Golden Lane
Entry now requires one purchase a comprehensive ticket for the Castle complex.
This is a disappointment to many who simply want to have a quick peek or visit some of
the tiny craft shops. At the moment, however, the gates are unlocked and entry is free after 4pm until dark.
Be sure to exit at the bottom, through a shop there, to see a large and highly unusual contemporary statue representing David and Goliath.
- Powder Tower museum
- Numerous views of the city from the castle walls
- Strahov Monastery, especially the Philosophical Hall and Theological Hall libraries.
LITTLE QUARTER - MALA STRANA
The Mala Strana area flows down to the Vltava River from the foot of the castle quarter.
Many embassies, shops, cafes, restaurants line the narrow streets. The Charles Bridge (Karluv Most)
connects the Old Town with the Mala Strana. Kampa island can be most easily reached by descending
the steps from the Charles Bridge. Metro stop: "Malostranska." Tram stops: "Malostranska"
(at the Metro station of the same name) or "Malostranske namesti" (at the square closest to the Charles Bridge).
The sights in Mala Strana, as with the Old Town, are seen mainly by strolling. The area has
few pedestrian-only areas and is not as old as the Old Town, but it is nevertheless
picturesque. Allow an hour or two, plus museums, galleries, cafes, shopping.
- Nerudova Street
- The Old Castle Steps
- Kampa Island, including the new Kampa Museum near the water's edge
- Charles Bridge
JEWISH QUARTER
The main sights in the Jewish Quarter, which is adjacent to the Old Town,
require tickets. Depending on the crowds and your level of interest,
touring the synagogues and cemetery can take 2 to 3 hours. Get there as early as possible if you want to avoid most of the large tour groups.
Metro and tram stop: "Staromestska".
Tip: If you go to the Museum of Decorative Arts and walk along 17th November Street (17 listopadu)
toward the Intercontinental Hotel and Parizska street, you can catch a glimpse of
the Old Jewish Cemetery through a small window in the high back wall of the cemetery.
There is also a splendid view down from the back windows of the Museum of Decorative Arts.
We recommend:
- Old Jewish Cemetery (Stary Zidovsky Hrbitov)
- Old-New Synagogue (Staronova Synagoga)
- Parizska street: Decidedly upscale shopping and elegant restaurants and cafes, or just a very pleasant stroll under the trees down this long beautiful boulevard from Old Town Square to the river.
VYSEHRAD
Vysehrad is a rocky headland on the bank of the Vltava well out of the historical center and is best reached by Metro
(stop "Vysehrad"). It is linked with many legends about the origins of Prague and
the Czech nation. In a two-day visit, this is unlikely to be a high priority
unless you long for a large cool park on a sweltering July or August day. Allow about
a half hour to get there from the center, using the Metro and walking,
and several hours to enjoy the site. If you do visit, see
- St. Martin's Rotunda - one of the few remaining Romanesque buildings in Prague
- The National Cemetery -- great figures of Czech history are buried here,
including Dvorak and Smetana.
- Heroic sculptures of figures from Czech mythology, including Libuse and Premysl.
- Splendid views to the south and the north along the fortification walls
overlooking the river.
EVENING ENTERTAINMENT
There is something for everyone in Prague, and the city swings late into the night. Except in strictly tourist venues, weekends can be quieter than weekdays, as residents leave for their country cottages in warm weather and for ski weekends in the mountains in winter. See our FAQ#3 on Nightlife for more details.
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